The Other Side of the Coin: The Queen, the Dresser and the Wardrobe

MY PRETTY

WOMAN MOMENT

By the year 2001, I had begun designing outfits for The Queen and I wanted to ensure that from then on Her Majesty always looked her best and was up-to-date on the latest trends. As part of my role as a designer, I was responsible for searching for another designer whose creations might be suitable for The Queen, as I knew I wouldn’t be able to do it all myself. Usually this is an enjoyable task, but on one occasion, things didn’t go as smoothly as I’d hoped.

On one of my first solo excursions, I was planning to visit some local designers, not far from Buckingham Palace. I dressed in smart-casual clothes, but comfortably, as anyone might do when they’re anticipating a morning of walking around the shops. The first shop I went into had a stale feel to it and the outfits in the window display seemed slightly old-fashioned. None the less, I was approached by a lady who smiled and asked if she could help. I explained that I’d come to have a look at their clothes and asked whether I could see the clothes on the rails to gain a better idea of the style and cut of their designs, as well as the finishing. As she agreed, I spotted a man at the back of the room who, even though he was in the middle of fitting someone, was staring at me as if I was the dirt on his shoe. He peered over the top of his black-rimmed glasses and condescendingly advised that the clothing was ‘couture, not retail’.

I was shocked by his rudeness and immediately turned to the woman who had greeted me and I said quietly, ‘I do know it’s couture, not retail, thank you. And he has just made a big mistake. Huge. I will be back to tell him who he missed designing for.’ In my mind I was Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman right then!

With that, I left the shop feeling humiliated and belittled. How rude of him to presume my status in such a way.

I made my way to the next shop, hoping for a more positive experience. I had been recommended to try Motcomb Street by one of The Queen’s Ladies-in-Waiting as a good area to find designers, so I went into Stewart Parvin Couture. As I stepped inside, it felt different from the last place – bright and modern with beautiful outfits everywhere. Again, a lady met me with a beaming smile and I asked the same questions as before: whether they’d mind me looking at the designs, the cut and the finishing of their clothes. ‘Not at all, take your time,’ was the very different response, and I went along the rails freely, looking at all the outfits. It was immediately clear to me that this was not only the work of a designer but of an excellent tailor. I was so impressed that I asked if it would be possible to meet Mr Parvin and, sure enough, the lady offered me a seat while she went to fetch him.

I had to wait only ten minutes for Mr Parvin, during which time I kept looking towards a particular blue cocktail outfit with the most lovely harlequin multi-coloured gem buttons. In fact, I was engrossed in these buttons when a young man in a pair of jeans and a white T-shirt greeted me warmly and enthusiastically. I explained to Stewart (for that was who he was) that, having looked at his designs, I had my eye on the blue cocktail suit with diamanté buttons, but that I would need to take the piece away for a short while to show my employer. I promised to bring it back within a few hours. Bear in mind that, at this point, Stewart had no idea who I was or for whom I worked, but he agreed: he really was the warm, friendly person he appeared to be.

Two hours later, I returned with the outfit, which I had shown to The Queen and had received her approval on Stewart’s style. Stewart was there to greet me again and, after thanking him, I asked if he had a stockroom. Sure enough, he took me straight downstairs to show me, seemingly unfazed by my endless questions about his work. Three of his materials leaped out at me as being appropriate for Her Majesty – a blue fleck tweed among them. With these in mind, I asked Stewart if he would do some quick designs there and then for a very high-profile female customer. Once again, Stewart was happy to oblige and we spent some time sketching potential designs. Safe in the knowledge that Stewart was a talented, trustworthy, and kind person, I finally disclosed that these designs would be for Her Majesty The Queen, but that he must be discreet and keep everything confidential.

And that was that. Since then, Stewart and I have been working together for The Queen, and our friendship and professional relationship have gone from strength to strength. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that we have known each other for over eighteen years. In 2007, Stewart was granted his Royal Warrant in recognition of his contribution to The Queen’s wardrobe. Little does that first designer know what he missed out on.

Happy times – Stewart and I collaborating together at Joel & Son. Look out for this material used in a cocktail dress to be worn in 2020.

Jackie and I working hard.

ALL IN A

DAY’S WORK

As my role evolved and became even more varied, I soon learned that there would be no ‘typical’ day for me, just as there is no ‘typical’ day in Her Majesty’s schedule, with its various engagements, Royal Tours and State Visits.

A couple of years ago, in 2017, a request from the Castle Administrator at Glamis Castle, Tommy Baxter, made its way to my desk in a handwritten letter from Angus, Scotland. Tommy was looking to organise an exhibition to mark the eightieth anniversary of King George VI’s Coronation and was wondering if The Queen would be willing to loan The Queen Mother’s wedding dress, her Coronation dress and Coronation robe for display, as well as the Coronation dresses, robes and coronets of Their Royal Highnesses The Princess Elizabeth and The Princess Margaret. Tommy mentioned that he thought it was unlikely: he had already been in touch with a member of the Royal Household and been offered two paintings for the exhibition, but no outfits.

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