Rose Elliot’s New Complete Vegetarian

Salsify with butter, parsley and lemon

Salsify – and their close relative, scorzonera – look like long, rather dirty dark roots when you see them in the shops, but when they’re peeled and cooked they have a delicious, delicate flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera (unpeeled weight)

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt

25g (1oz) butter

freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Peel the roots, keeping them under cold water to preserve the colour. Cut them into 2.5cm (1in) pieces and put them straight into a bowl of cold water with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.

Bring 2.5cm (1in) of salted water to the boil in a large saucepan, add the roots and cook for about 10 minutes or until just tender.

Drain and add the butter, the remaining lemon juice, the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Heat gently to melt the butter, then serve at once.

Salsify fritters

These delicate fritters make a perfect first course.

SERVES 4

700g (1 lb) salsify or scorzonera

3 tbsp red wine vinegar

1–2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs (e.g. parsley or dill)

salt and freshly ground pepper

125g (4oz) plain flour

1 tbsp olive oil

2 eggs, separated

150ml (5fl oz) water

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

lemon slices, to serve

Prepare and cook the salsify as described in the first two paragraphs of the previous recipe. Drain well, then sprinkle with the vinegar, herbs and some salt and pepper.

Mix together the flour, oil, seasoning, egg yolks and water to form a batter. Whisk the egg whites, then fold into the batter.

Heat enough oil to half fill a medium-sized saucepan to 190°C (375°F) (or when a little batter sizzles if dropped into the oil). Coat the salsify pieces in batter, then fry for about 4 minutes or until browned. Drain and serve with the lemon slices.

Salsify mayonnaise

Cooked and mixed with mayonnaise, salsify makes a lovely dish that I think of as the vegetarian equivalent to a light fish dish, though I can’t swear to this as I haven’t eaten fish since I was three years old!

SERVES 4

1kg (2 lb) salsify or scorzonera

2 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp mayonnaise

3 tbsp natural yoghurt

TO GARNISH

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

lemon slices

Peel and cook the salsify until tender. While still hot, add the lemon juice, mayonnaise and yoghurt. Leave to cool.

Serve on individual plates, garnished with the parsley and lemon slices.

Easy spring rolls v

These may seem fiddly, but actually they’re easy to make and delicious served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce.

MAKES 24 SPRING ROLLS

1 onion, chopped

1 tbsp olive oil

335g packet beansprouts

1 small pointed red pepper, deseeded and sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed

a thumb-sized piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped

head of Chinese leaves, shredded

3 tbsp dark soy sauce

salt

270g packet filo pastry (6 sheets, approximately 500mm × 240mm (20in × 9 in))

rapeseed or groundnut oil, for brushing

sweet chilli sauce, to serve

Fry the onion in the oil in a large saucepan for 5 minutes or until beginning to soften. Add the bean sprouts, red pepper, garlic, ginger and Chinese leaves, stir-fry for a further 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Add the soy sauce and some salt to taste, then leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6.

Cut each sheet of filo pastry in half right down the middle, and across, making 24 rectangles.

Take one rectangle of filo pastry. Put about a tablespoon of the vegetable mixture across the filo, about 1cm (½in) from the top. Fold over the top, and fold over the sides, then roll the pastry to make a spring roll shape.

Brush the spring roll with oil, or put some oil on a plate and dip the spring roll in this, to coat lightly. Place the spring roll on a baking sheet and repeat with the rest of the mixture until all the filo and (probably) all of the vegetable mixture is used.

Bake the spring rolls for about 10 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Serve with a chilli dipping sauce.

Sweet potato bhajis v

These crisp tasty morsels make a tempting starter or nibble. They’re great with mango chutney, tomato salsa or cucumber and coriander raita; or add some hot cooked rice to make a light main course.

MAKES 8 / SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

350g (12oz) sweet potato

1 onion, very finely chopped

125g (4oz) chickpea flour

1 tsp dried red chilli flakes

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Peel and grate the sweet potatoes, then put into a bowl and add the onion, chickpea flour, chilli flakes, baking powder, salt and coriander. Mix well; as you mix, the moisture from the vegetables will be drawn out and will bind everything together. Add a tablespoonful or so of water only if the chickpea flour remains dry.

Heat enough oil in a medium-sized saucepan for deep-frying. (The pan needs to be half full of oil.) When the oil reaches 180°C (350°F), or a cube of bread rises to the surface and turns golden brown in under 1 minute, put in 3–4 dessertspoons of the mixture, depending on the size of your pan. Don’t make the bhajis too big – they’re best when light and rather straggly and gorgeously crisp – and don’t crowd the pan, otherwise the oil will cool and the bhajis will stick together. Deep-fry the bhajis for about 4 minutes or until crisp, brown and cooked right through, then remove them with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Keep the bhajis warm in a low oven or under a warm grill while you cook the rest of the mixture.

VARIATION

Cabbage bhajis v

These are delicious; use 350g (12oz) shredded green cabbage instead of the sweet potatoes.

Onion bhajis v

Use 450g (1lb) red onions instead of the sweet potatoes, and omit the extra onion in the main recipe.

Tomatoes with horseradish cream

This is simple but delicious – sliced tomatoes topped with a piquant creamy horseradish dressing. The better the tomatoes, the better this dish will be.

SERVES 4

6 large firm tomatoes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

125g (4oz) ricotta cheese

2 tbsp natural yoghurt

2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil

tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp horseradish sauce or 1 tsp grated horseradish

chopped fresh chives, to garnish

You could skin the tomatoes if you wish: cover with boiling water for a minute, then drain and slip off the skins. Slice the tomatoes, with skins or without, into bite-sized pieces, divide between four plates and season with salt and pepper.

To make the topping, mix together the ricotta cheese, yoghurt, oil, vinegar and horseradish sauce until creamy. You could use a blender for this if you want it really smooth.

Season, then pour this mixture over the tomatoes and sprinkle over some chopped chives.

Stuffed vine leaves v

These are fun to make and delicious served as part of a selection of tapas, or arranged attractively on individual plates with some tzatziki or hummus and a few juicy black olives.

SERVES 4–6

36 fresh vine leaves (if available) or preserved vine leaves

225g (8oz) brown basmati rice

1 large onion, chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2 fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped

50g (2oz) pine nuts

50g (2oz) raisins

tsp cinnamon

2 garlic cloves, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbsp olive oil

150ml (5fl oz) water

1–2 tbsp lemon juice

lemon wedges, to garnish

If you’re using fresh vine leaves, half fill a large saucepan with water and bring it to the boil. Trim the leaves and put into the boiling water, cover and simmer for 2 minutes. Then drain and run under cold water to refresh them. Drain well. With preserved vine leaves, simply drain and rinse well under the cold tap.

Half fill the saucepan with water; add the rice and boil for 10 minutes, then drain.

Mix together the rice, onion, parsley, tomatoes, pine kernels, raisins, cinnamon, garlic and seasoning. Place a spoonful of this filling on each leaf, fold the edges over and place the little bundles side by side in a frying pan. Mix together the oil and water and pour over the vine leaves. Sprinkle the lemon juice on top.

Cook, covered, over a very gentle heat for 2–2½ hours or until the rice and leaves are tender. Keep an eye on the water level and add a little more from time to time if necessary. Serve garnished with lemon wedges.

Aïoli with crudités

This garlic-flavoured mayonnaise from Provence, served with a gloriously colourful selection of whatever fresh vegetables are available, makes a wonderful first course or even a light meal. You need a blender or food processor to make this recipe.

SERVES 4–6

FOR THE CRUDITÉS

A selection of raw vegetables in bite-sized pieces; aim for maybe 4–5 different types of contrasting colours, such as: crunchy red radishes served whole with some of the green parts still attached; bright orange carrot cut into matchsticks; strips of deseeded red pepper; cauliflower florets; small very fresh mushrooms; spring onions, trimmed; pieces of crunchy fennel bulb; juicy cucumber in chunks; crisp leaves of chicory or sticks of celery; quarters of firm tomatoes, or cherry tomatoes.

FOR THE AÏOLI

1 egg

2–4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

tsp salt

tsp mustard powder

tsp pepper

2 tsp red wine vinegar

2 tsp lemon juice

200ml (7fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

Break the egg into the blender and add the garlic, salt, mustard, pepper, vinegar and lemon juice.

Blend at a medium speed for about 1 minute. Then turn the speed to high and gradually add the oil, drop by drop, through the top of the lid.

When about half the oil has been added and you hear the sound of the mixture change, you can add the oil more quickly in a thin stream.

If the mixture is very thick you can thin it by stirring in a little hot water. Serve the aïoli in a bowl with the crudités on the side.

VARIATION

Quick and easy aïoli

Nothing beats the real thing, but you can make a good quick aïoli using high-quality bought mayonnaise with crushed garlic mixed into it. Start with 1 crushed clove of garlic and add more to taste.

Light aïoli

If you want to serve aïoli but hesitate on account of all the calories it contains, you might like to use half mayonnaise and half natural yoghurt; or add some garlic to the ricotta mayonnaise and use that instead of full-fat mayonnaise.

Avocado and cream cheese dip v

While classic guacamole contains only avocado, tomatoes, coriander and chilli, this dip has a base of cream cheese – medium or low fat, whichever you choose – and a hint of garlic, Tabasco, lemon juice and wine vinegar. Both dips are delectable. Use vegan cream cheese if you prefer.

SERVES 4–6

250g (9oz) cream cheese

1 garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce

2 large, ripe avocados

1 tbsp lemon juice

dash of red wine vinegar

sprinkling of paprika, to garnish

tortilla chips or melba toast, to serve

Mix together the cream cheese, garlic, some salt, pepper and a few drops of Tabasco.

Just before serving, peel and mash the avocados with the lemon juice. Mix with the ricotta. Check the seasoning, adding a dash of wine vinegar.

Spoon the dip onto a plate and sprinkle with paprika to give a nice touch of scarlet against the pale green. Serve with tortilla chips or crisp melba toast.

Baba ganoush v

In this Middle Eastern dip the intense, subtle flavour of the aubergine blends with the rich, earthy taste of the tahini (sesame cream) and the texture is substantial without being heavy. I love it, especially the smoky version, see opposite. It looks beautiful in a shallow bowl, its pale surface swirled with golden-green olive oil. Serve with warm pitta bread, thin crisp flatbread and colourful raw vegetables and olives.

SERVES 4

2 aubergines (about 450g (1lb))

2–3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 heaped tbsp tahini

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 large garlic clove, crushed

salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

extra olive oil, to swirl

a scattering of toasted sesame seeds

a little chopped flat-leaf parsley

Halve the aubergines, removing the stems. Rub them lightly with a little of the olive oil and place on a baking sheet.

Bake at 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6 for about 25 minutes or until they can be pierced easily with the point of a sharp knife. Cool.

Chop the aubergine flesh as finely as you can, then mix it with all the other ingredients. Alternatively, blend the aubergine, remaining oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic together until fairly smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then chill in the fridge.

To serve, spoon the baba ganoush onto a plate or shallow dish, swirl some olive oil over the top and sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped parsley.

VARIATION

Smoky baba ganoush v

Prick the aubergines in several places, then place under a very hot grill, or on an oven rack placed on top of a gas hob, and char all over until black on the outside and soft inside. This takes about 25–30 minutes (remember to open the kitchen windows!). Cool slightly then scrape off the skin and discard. Blend the aubergine flesh to a pale cream with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the tahini, lemon juice and garlic, a seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Chill in the fridge until required, then serve garnished as described.

Baba ganoush with cumin and pine nuts v

For a spicier version add a large pinch – or more, to taste – of ground cumin to the mixture, either the smoked or unsmoked version, and scatter with some toasted pine nuts along with the chopped parsley.

Baba ganoush with pomegranate v

Make as described, either smoked or unsmoked, and scatter the top with some fresh pomegrate seeds (you won’t need the whole pomegranate) and the chopped parsley.

Aubergine and yoghurt dip

For this rather different, light and creamy version, instead of the tahini and lemon juice, mix the aubergines with 150ml (5fl oz) thick Greek yoghurt and stir in a small bunch of fresh chopped herbs (chives, mint, coriander or dill). You can make this lighter by using low-fat yoghurt or you can increase the richness by adding soured cream.

Butter bean dip with sesame toast v

This is a creamy dip with a tangy flavour. If you use canned beans it’s very quick to make, so it’s a great standby. The dip is excellent served with hot crunchy sesame toast, which is very easy to make.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) dried butter beans, soaked and cooked until tender or 400g can

1 small garlic clove, crushed (optional)

2 tbsp olive oil

2–3 tsp lemon juice or wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco sauce

lemon wedges, to garnish

FOR THE SESAME TOASTS

6 slices wholemeal bread

a little butter or vegan spread

a small handful of sesame seeds

Drain the butter beans, reserving the liquid. Purée the beans in a food processor or blender, adding enough of the reserved liquid to make a thick creamy purée; or mash them with a fork and beat in the liquid.

Stir in the garlic (if using), oil and enough lemon juice or wine vinegar to sharpen the mixture. Season well with salt and pepper and add a few drops of Tabasco. Chill the mixture in the fridge.

Just before you want to serve the dip, make the sesame toasts. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), gas mark 6. Cut the crusts off the bread and roll each slice with a rolling pin to flatten it a bit.

Spread the bread with butter or vegan spread and sprinkle a good layer of sesame seeds on top, pressing them in with a knife. Cut the bread into fingers and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 10–15 minutes or until crisp and golden brown.

Meanwhile, spoon the dip on to small plates or into individual ramekin dishes and garnish each with a wedge of lemon. Serve with the hot sesame toasts.

VARIATION

Butter bean and black olive dip v

Make exactly as in the main recipe, but add 12 black olives, finely chopped, to the finished mixture or add them to the beans before blending.

Butter bean and black olive dip with hardboiled eggs

For this variation, cut four hardboiled eggs into wedges and arrange on six small plates. Spoon the bean and black olive dip on top and sprinkle with a little paprika. Garnish each plate with a few sprigs of watercress and a wedge of lemon.

Cannellini bean, black olive, sun-dried tomato and basil dip v

The flavours of the Mediterranean are in this simple dip, which is quick to whiz up from a can of beans. It’s great served with pieces of raw vegetables or crisps for dipping, spooned on top of some lettuce as a starter, or spread on crackers, pitta bread or crostini.

SERVES 4–6

1 small garlic clove, crushed

400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

juice of lemon

3–4 sun-dried tomatoes, drained if in oil, or soaked in hot water for 30 minutes if dry

8 black olives, pitted

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1–2 sprigs of basil

Put the garlic, beans, lemon juice, tomatoes and olives into a food processor and whiz to a thick purée. Alternatively, put them into a deep container and use an electric hand blender. Season to taste with salt and pepper, pour into a serving bowl and then tear the basil leaves over the top.

Serve with crisp pitta strips and a chunky salad of Little Gem hearts, firm tomatoes and batons of cucumber.

Cream cheese and soured cream dip

An American friend gave me this recipe, which she serves on Thanksgiving Day as a first course. Like the aïoli, it’s superb with a colourful selection of crisp fresh vegetables for dipping into the creamy mixture.

SERVES 6

FOR THE DIP

225g (8oz) low-fat fromage frais or quark

275ml (10fl oz) soured cream

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives

salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CRUDITÉS

A selection of about 5 different vegetables of contrasting colours, like those described for the aïoli on page 41.

Put the fromage frais or quark into a bowl, beat lightly with a fork, then stir in the soured cream, garlic and chives and mix to a smooth consistency.

Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the dip into a serving dish and chill in the fridge until required.

Arrange the colourful vegetables around the dip and serve.

Feta cheese and herb spread

This spread looks attractive in the centre of a serving dish and surrounded by shiny black olives, whole red radishes, crunchy green spring onions and quartered tomatoes.

SERVES 4

200 (7oz) feta cheese

125g (4oz) unsalted butter, softened

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives

1 tbsp chopped fresh dill

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

a pinch each of paprika and caraway seeds

Drain the feta cheese of any liquid from the packet, and blot with kitchen paper, then mash.

Put the butter into a bowl and beat with a spoon until creamy, then gradually beat in the mashed feta and the herbs and spices.

Chill the spread in the fridge, then serve it as suggested above or use it as a sandwich filling or a topping for savoury biscuits.

Field bean pâté v

This wonderful coarse-textured pâté has a delicious earthy flavour. It’s very economical and good served with fingers of hot wholemeal toast and a tomato salad. You do need a food processor or good blender to chop the beans.