Rose Elliot’s New Complete Vegetarian

Celery sauce

3–4 tablespoons of very finely chopped celery and ½ teaspoon of celery salt can be added to the sauce after blending and simmered until tender.

Cheese sauce

Add 125g (4oz) grated cheese after the sauce has cooked.

Egg sauce

Add three very finely chopped hardboiled eggs and a pinch of mace to the basic sauce.

Fennel sauce

Add 2–3 tablespoons of very finely chopped fennel bulb to the sauce before simmering.

Green herb sauce

Use 1–2 tablespoons of very finely chopped fresh green herbs (whatever is available), and add just before serving.

Lemon sauce

Add some finely grated lemon rind and juice to the basic white sauce. You can intensify the colour with a pinch of turmeric.

Mushroom sauce

This is good with vegetables and for serving with pasta and gnocchi. To make it, wash and finely slice 125g (4oz) button mushrooms, fry them in a little butter for a minute or two, then add them to the sauce.

Mustard sauce

Add 1 tablespoons of French mustard and a little lemon juice to the sauce after cooking.

Onion sauce

Another useful variation, good when you want to add more flavour to a dish. Peel and finely chop an onion, then fry it in the butter before blending with the other ingredients. Try flavouring with a pinch of ground cloves.

Parsley sauce

Add sprigs of parsley into the blender with the other ingredients at the beginning of the process.

Watercress sauce

Add ½–1 bunch of finely chopped watercress to the sauce, or add unchopped watercress to the sauce and blend it.

Vegan béchamel sauce v

Use vegan margarine instead of butter, and soya milk.

Bread sauce

One of the delights of Christmas dinner, and it’s every bit as good with a vegetarian main course as it is with a meat one.

SERVES 4–6

1 onion 3 cloves

275ml (10fl oz) milk or unsweetened soya milk

1 bay leaf

2 large slices of fresh white bread, crusts removed

15g (½oz) butter

1–2 tbsp double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Put the onion, studded with the cloves, into a saucepan and add the milk and the bay leaf.

Bring to the boil, then take off the heat, add the slices of bread, cover and leave to one side for 15–30 minutes for the flavours to infuse.

Remove the onion and bay leaf, beat the mixture to break up the bread and stir in the butter and cream, adding salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

If you are making the sauce in advance, you can put back the onion and bay leaf once you have beaten it smooth; they will continue to flavour the sauce until you’re ready to reheat and serve it.

Cheese sauce

Cheese sauce is useful both for incorporating into other dishes before baking or grilling, and for serving with vegetables to make them into more of a meal. It’s worth using a strongly flavoured cheese, and you can boost the flavour with a good seasoning of mustard, cayenne and freshly ground black pepper. Unsweetened soya milk makes a particularly good, creamy sauce and Double Gloucester gives it a pretty colour.

MAKES 275ML (10FL OZ)

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

1 bay leaf

275–425ml (10–15fl oz) milk or unsweetened soya milk

50g (2oz) grated cheese – Cheddar or Double Gloucester

1 tsp mustard powder

cayenne pepper

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook for a few seconds or until the flour bubbles round the edges, then add the bay leaf, turn up the heat and pour in about one-third of the milk or soya milk.

Stir hard until the sauce is very thick and smooth, then repeat the process twice with the remaining milk so that you finish with a thick pouring consistency.

Take the pan off the heat and beat in the grated cheese, mustard, a tiny pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Don’t let the sauce get too hot once the cheese has been added or it may go stringy and spoil.

Cranberry sauce v

This rich, thick red sauce with a tangy flavour is a delight. Although you can find jars of cranberry sauce and jelly in any supermarket, it’s much nicer to make your own from lovely juicy cranberries. It’s delicious with white nut roast with parsley stuffing or chestnut pâté en croûte as part of a Christmas dinner. It keeps well in the fridge for 3–4 weeks.

SERVES 8

225g (8oz) fresh cranberries

150ml (5fl oz) water

175g (6 oz) caster sugar

Sort out the cranberries by removing any bruised ones and taking off any little stems. Wash the berries and put them into a saucepan with the water.

Cook gently until the berries begin to ‘pop’ and are tender – 7–10 minutes on a high heat.

Add the sugar and simmer for 5 minutes or until the sauce is glossy.

VARIATION

Gooseberry sauce v

This, too, is delicious with many nut and pulse dishes. Make in the same way, using just 4 tablespoons of water, then blend. You probably won’t need as much sugar.

Cucumber raita

This refreshing yoghurt dish is perfect with curries, lentil croquettes and bhajis.

SERVES 4–6

½ cucumber, peeled and diced

salt

275ml (10fl oz) natural yoghurt

½ green chilli, deseeded and chopped (optional)

Put the cucumber into a sieve set over a bow, sprinkle with salt, cover with a small plate with a weight on top and leave for 30 minutes to draw out excess water. Then rinse, squeeze and pat dry the cucumber with kitchen paper.

Mix the cucumber with the yoghurt and chilli.

VARIATION

Cucumber and mint raita

Make as described, adding 2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint.

Cucumber and coriander raita

Make as described, adding 2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander.

Vegetarian gravy v

Easy to make and delicious. Try it with toad-in-the-hole and easy creamy mash or with lentil loaf.

MAKES ABOUT 425ML (JUST OVER 15FL OZ)

1 onion, chopped

1½ tbsp rapeseed or olive oil

25g (1oz) plain flour

1 garlic clove, crushed

425ml (15fl oz) water

vegetable bouillon, stock cube or powder (optional)

1 tsp yeast extract

1–2 tsp dark soy sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fry the onion in the oil for 10 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and, stirring all the time, let it brown over the heat.

Add all the remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil and leave to simmer for 10 minutes. If you like a smooth gravy, strain or blend. Season to taste and serve.

Classic hollandaise sauce

A rich, special-occasion sauce that is wonderful with asparagus, artichokes or salsify. This is the traditional method of making it, with a whisk in a bowl over a pan of hot water. It can also be made quickly in a blender or food processor.

SERVES 6

1–2 tsp lemon juice

1 tbsp cold water

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 egg yolks

125g (4oz) butter, diced

Mix together 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice, water and some salt and pepper in a double saucepan or a bowl set over a pan of hot water (don’t let the water boil).

Beat in the egg yolks, then whisk in a quarter of the butter, beating until the butter has melted and is beginning to thicken.

Add the rest of the butter in three batches, beating well between each batch. Add a little more lemon juice if you wish.

Quick blender hollandaise

This gorgeous sauce is easy to make if you use a blender. Make it just before you want to eat it.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) butter, diced

1 tbsp lemon juice

2 egg yolks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a small saucepan then bring to the boil.

Whiz the lemon juice and egg yolks in a blender until pale and thick, then, with the machine still running, pour in the boiling melted butter and whiz for a further minute. Season with salt and a pinch of pepper and serve at once.

Lemon lentil sauce v

This creamy, smooth lentil sauce that turn a plate of steamed or roasted vegetables into a complete meal. For spicier lentil sauces see the lentil dals on page 194.

SERVES 4

125g (4oz) red lentils

575ml (1 pint) water

1 onion

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp curry powder

juice and grated rind of 1 lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simmer the lentils in the water until tender – about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel and chop the onion and sauté gently in the oil with the curry powder for 10 minutes.

Add the lemon juice and grated rind a little at a time, until it tastes right to you.

Liquidise or blend the sauce, season well with salt and pepper and serve.

Mint sauce v

Sharp-tasting yet sweet as well, mint sauce complements many lentil and bean dishes such as field bean burgers, lentil croquettes or white nut roast.

SERVES 4–6

25g (1oz) chopped fresh mint

1 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp boiling water

4 tbsp cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

If you’ve got a liquidiser or hand blender, just wash the mint leaves and take off any stalks, then whiz with the other ingredients until the mint is finely chopped. Pour into a jug to serve.

If you’d rather make the sauce by hand, finely chop the mint leaves, then put them into a bowl. Add the sugar, water and vinegar and mix well.

Mushroom and Marsala sauce

Rich, creamy and luxurious, this adds a gourmet touch to any meal. Try it with cashew nut and parsley fritters, tofu escalopes or lentil croquettes.

SERVES 4

25g (1oz) butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp finely chopped onion

250g (9oz) chestnut mushrooms, sliced

1 tsp plain flour

125ml (4fl oz) Marsala

200ml (7fl oz) crème fraîche

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, cover and cook gently for 2–3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 4–5 minutes, until they are tender.

Add the flour and stir over the heat for a minute or two, then pour in the Marsala and let the mixture bubble away over the heat for 3–4 minutes, or longer if you want to reduce it more. Stir in the crème fraîche, adding salt and pepper to taste. Reheat gently, then serve.

Mushroom and soured cream sauce

This is a creamy fresh-tasting sauce that’s best served warm and is delicious with nut or pulse savouries, burgers and also with plainly cooked vegetables.

SERVES 4–6

15g (½oz) butter

125g (4oz) button mushrooms, chopped

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a pinch of paprika

Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan and fry the mushrooms for about 5 minutes.

Stir in the soured cream and salt, pepper and a little paprika to taste.

Reheat gently, but don’t let the sauce boil.

Red onion marmalade v

Sweet and tangy, this goes with so many things and is so good you can even eat it as it is. It makes a great topping for bruschetta and keeps well in the fridge for a week or so.

SERVES 4–8

1kg (2¼lb) red onions, thinly sliced

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp golden caster sugar

3 tbsp fino sherry

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onions, cover and cook, stirring every 5 minutes, for about 15 minutes or until they’re very tender. They must be really soft before you go on to the next stage.

Add the sugar, sherry and vinegar, then leave to simmer gently, without a lid, for about 30 minutes or until you have a thick, sticky mixture with hardly any liquid left. Remove from the heat, season to taste with salt and pepper and leave to cool. Store in a covered container in the fridge for about a week.

Red wine sauce

This sauce always makes a meal taste special. You can use either an inexpensive wine, or some extra of whatever you’re having with the meal. Try this with the chestnut, sage and red wine loaf.

SERVES 6

425ml (15fl oz) vegetable stock

425ml (15fl oz) red wine

1 bay leaf

a piece of onion

1 garlic clove, finely sliced

a pinch of dried thyme

5 tsp black peppercorns

2–3 parsley stalks

1 tbsp redcurrant jelly

salt and freshly ground black pepper

40g (1½oz) butter, softened

20g (¾oz) plain flour

Put the stock and red wine into a saucepan with the bay leaf, onion, garlic, thyme, peppercorns and parsley stalks and bring to the boil. Let the mixture bubble away for 10–15 minutes so that the amount of liquid reduces to half. Strain into a clean saucepan and mix in the redcurrant jelly and some salt and pepper.

Next make a beurre manié: simply mash half the butter with the flour to make a paste and add this, in small pieces, to the still-warm sauce, mixing well after you’ve added each piece. This is an easy, foolproof way to thicken a sauce.

Put the sauce back over the heat and stir it until it has thickened slightly.

Let the sauce simmer gently for a few minutes to cook the flour. Check the seasoning again and beat the remaining butter into the sauce just before serving to make it look glossy and appetizing.

Tip

If you want to prepare the sauce in advance, after you’ve added the beurre manié and simmered the sauce for a few minutes, take it off the heat and dot the remaining butter over the top of the sauce to prevent a skin forming. When you’re ready to eat, heat the sauce gently and stir the butter in.

Salsa v

Zingy and refreshing, this perks up so many dishes and can be made several hours in advance. Add the chilli to taste – either cautiously if you’re unsure or generously for hardened chilli lovers.

SERVES 4–8

4 tomatoes, fairly finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

4 spring onions, chopped

2 tbsp chopped red onion

1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped

2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

1 tbsp lime juice

½ tsp salt

Just mix everything together and set aside until you are ready to serve. If you have time, leave to stand for a while to bring out all the flavours.

Satay sauce v

This is a gorgeous tangy, creamy, protein-rich sauce that you can whip up in a moment. You can serve it with the deep-fried salt and pepper tofu, or with cubes of fried smoked tofu; it’s also fabulous in the cauliflower satay. I like to use good-quality pure peanut butter, but you could also use cashew or almond butter if you like. You can find jars of tamarind and vegetarian Thai red curry paste (i.e. not containing fish) in large supermarkets.

SERVES 3–4

3 tbsp smooth peanut butter

5 tbsp coconut milk

1 tbsp tamarind

1 tbsp Thai red curry paste

Put the peanut butter into a small mixing bowl and gradually stir in the coconut milk, tamarind and curry paste to make a smooth cream. Transfer the sauce to a small serving bowl to serve.

Soured cream and herb sauce

This sauce is served cold, but can accompany both hot and cold dishes.

MAKES 275ML (10FL OZ)

150ml (5fl oz) soured cream

150ml (5fl oz) natural yoghurt

2 tbsp chopped fresh herbs, (e.g.flat-leaf parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Simply mix everything together and season to taste.

VARIATION

Horseradish sauce

Make as described, leaving out the herbs and flavouring with 2–3 teaspoons of grated horseradish and 1–2 teaspoons of red wine vinegar. This is even nicer if you add a little mayonnaise, or replace 2 tablespoons of the yoghurt with 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise. This is wonderful with walnut pâté en croûte.

Tartare sauce

This tangy sauce can be made in moments and is a great way of livening up anything from lentil croquettes to grilled polenta or cheese fritters.

SERVES 2–4

4 tbsp mayonnaise

1–15 tbsp small capers, rinsed

1–1½ tbsp small gherkins, drained and chopped

1 tsp finely chopped onion

1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

a few drops of Tabasco sauce

Just put all the ingredients into a bowl and mix together. Keep in a covered container in the fridge until required.

VARIATION

Vegan tartare sauce v

This is delicious made with a good vegan mayonnaise; I like the egg-free one with garlic that is widely available in health-food shops.

Tomato sauce v

This sauce really couldn’t be easier and is one of my standbys. I find it best not to let the tomatoes cook for very long this way the sauce has a much fresher flavour. It’s worth buying good-quality canned tomatoes because they have a much richer flavour and produce a better sauce.

SERVES 4–6

1 onion

1 tbsp olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

450g (1lb) tomatoes, skinned or 400g can chopped tomatoes

1 tsp dried oregano (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Peel and chop the onion and fry it gently in the oil in a medium-sized saucepan, with a lid on the pan, until it’s soft but not browned – about 10 minutes.

Add the garlic, along with the tomatoes and oregano (if using). Simmer, uncovered, for 10–15 minutes or until thick.

You can blend the sauce, or leave it chunky. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Tip

The basic recipe can be varied in lots of ways. Try putting a bay leaf with the onion to draw out its lovely flavour while it softens; or add a little chopped fresh or dried basil, thyme or cinnamon to the finished sauce; or stir a couple of tablespoons of red wine into the blended mixture before you reheat it. It can be served chilled, too.

Onion relish with poppy seeds and paprika v

If you cover onion rings with an oil and vinegar dressing and leave them for an hour or so to marinate, they soften and become less hot. This relish is delicious as a side for spicy lentil and rice dishes.

SERVES 4

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large mild onions, sliced into rings

1 tbsp poppy seeds

2 tsp paprika

Put the vinegar and oil into a shallow container with some salt and pepper and mix together.

Add the onion rings and mix again, so that they are all covered with the dressing.

Sprinkle with the poppy seeds and paprika.

Leave to one side for at least 1 hour, longer if possible, even overnight. Give it a stir every so often.

Quick no-cook chutney v

This is the easiest chutney recipe I know and it tastes delicious, just like a traditional one that’s been bubbling over a hot stove for ages. To sterilise the jam jars, either run them through a hot dishwasher cycle, or wash them, stand them on a baking sheet and place in a cool oven, 140°C (275°F) gas mark 1, for 10–15 minutes or until they are dry.

MAKES 3 KG (7LB)

450g (1lb) stoneless dates

450g (1lb) sultanas

450g (1lb) apples, peeled

450g (1lb) onions

450g (1lb) dark muscovado sugar

575ml (1 pint) vinegar (I use cider vinegar)

1 tsp salt

freshly ground black pepper

dash of cayenne pepper, allspice and ground ginger

Finely chop the first four ingredients in a food processor or by hand, then stir in the sugar and vinegar.

Add the salt, some pepper, and a pinch each of cayenne, allspice and ground ginger.

Leave the mixture to stand for 24 hours, giving it a stir from time to time, then spoon into sterilised jars and seal. Store in a cool, dry place. It keeps very well, just like a traditional chutney.