Günthersdorf, July 27, 1841.– I left Hohlstein the day before yesterday in the morning and reached Sagan at two o'clock. After dinner I went to the castle to select certain family portraits of which I wish copies to be made for Rochecotte. I then went to the church to decide the place and the form of the little monument which is now to be erected in memory of my father. It is time that this was done, as he has now been buried in the church for forty years, and apart from tradition no one knows the place of his burial. Yesterday I went at an early hour to the little church which is picturesquely situated at the end of the park of Sagan, in the vault of which the remains of my late sister have been laid. Mass was said there at my request for the repose of her soul. The church was filled with beautiful flowers and rare plants brought by the castle gardener; a considerable number of people were also present. I then set out for Deutsch-Wartenberg which belongs to me and came on here in the evening with Herr von Wolff who is staying for two or three days, to meet Herr von Gersdorf whom I expect. They have to settle between them the legal questions which have arisen between my sons and my sister Hohenzollern, concerning the allodial claims of the latter to the greater part of Sagan.
I found that some improvements had been made here; the garden is well kept and everything perfectly neat.
I have several letters. Madame de Lieven writing under date July 15 tells me that Queen Victoria is paying a round of visits to the Whig Ministers, a proceeding which is thought very inadvisable in the present situation and that no one would be astonished if she began a coup d'état rather than endure a Tory Ministry. It is also possible that to avoid Sir Robert Peel she may summon Lord Liverpool, a measure not likely to meet with success. It is said that the eldest son of Lady Jersey is to marry the daughter of Sir Robert Peel; that Lady Palmerston is quite revolutionary in her sentiments and more furious than any one because she is obliged to leave the Ministry. All these rumours are extremely vague.
The Duchesse de Montmorency tells me of the marriage of Mlle. Vandermarck, daughter of the stockbroker, with the Comte de Panis, owner of the fine château of Borelli near Marseilles.
Günthersdorf, July 31, 1841.– A letter from M. Bresson from Berlin tells me that he is expecting General de Rumigny to stay from the 15th to the 20th of August, as the King of Prussia has invited him to the manœuvres in Silesia and at Berlin. He tells me that M. and Madame Thiers are to arrive at Berlin at the same time. The Duc de Noailles writes that Lady Clanricarde will spend the next winter at Paris and that Lord Cowley's nomination in place of Lord Granville is expected. He adds that the little Rachel has just arrived at Paris; that only Marshal Soult's triumph in England could be compared to hers; that he had letters from her in London in which she showed the utmost delight over her success, though remarkable to relate, her head was not turned by it. I think that the Duc's head would be less steady under such circumstances.
Günthersdorf, August 1, 1841.– Madame de Perponcher tells me that the King of Hanover is quite overwhelmed by the death of his wife, over whom he seems to have watched most admirably. For a long time he was under a delusion concerning the state of her health and when the doctors told him that there was no hope, he was completely crushed. However, as soon as he recovered his spirits he went to the Queen and spoke of her religious duties as well as a Catholic could have done. The Queen heard the terrible news with the utmost firmness and received the communion with the King, her daughter, the Duchess of Anhalt and poor Prince George. The despair of the latter was heartrending; as he could not see his mother, he could not be persuaded that she was dead and insisted that he should be allowed to touch her body. As soon as the father put the mother's cold hand in that of her son, the poor blind man was overcome with a kind of madness. He has since been sent to the seaside. These details are cruel and really most heartrending.
Günthersdorf, August 6, 1841.– My sisters have been here since the first of the month and seem to enjoy themselves in spite of the terrible weather.
Yesterday I had a letter from M. Bresson who says: "There is no positive news from Paris: M. de Flahaut has refused Turin and declines to commit himself concerning the offer of Madrid. He says that he maintains the fact that Vienna was offered to him, which M. Guizot will not admit. Whether it was offered or not, he is doing his utmost to secure it and Madame de Flahaut is watching from Ems for the arrival of Prince and Princess Metternich at the Johannisberg. I remain in an attitude of expectation and am resolved only to leave Berlin for Vienna or London.
"Herr von Werther has resigned the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. His place will be taken by Count Maltzan, but who will replace him at Vienna is not yet known. The King has given Werther the Order of the Black Eagle and has made the title of baron hereditary in his family; hitherto it had been only a personal title. Arnim of Paris has been made a count.
"The Toulouse disturbance is causing me more anxiety;36 no other town in France has followed this bad example. The July festival has been celebrated in an orderly manner.
The whole of the loan will not be required; the financial deficiencies are being repaired and we shall find that France has recovered her strength and reorganised her military power. My ardent desire is that all this may make for peace."
Such is the prose, or if you prefer it, the poetry of M. Bresson.
Günthersdorf, August 7, 1841.– I have a letter from M. Molé who complains of his health and refers to the disturbance at Toulouse and the general condition of France with as much gloominess as M. Bresson showed satisfaction in the letter which I quoted yesterday.
The Duchesse de Montmorency writes saying that Mgr. Affre prohibited M. Genoude from preaching. The latter then went to learn the reason for this prohibition: the Bishop replied that it was due to his anti-governmental opinions; M. Genoude angrily replied that if the Bishop persisted in maintaining his prohibition, he would print the whole of Mgr. Affre's writings of a few years ago, in opposition to the July monarchy, the original signed documents being in his possession. The Archbishop thereupon relented and M. Genoude will preach. This is an attitude truly worthy of a bishop! The incident naturally induces me to draw comparisons with the past and strengthens my conviction that Mgr. de Quélen was the last real Archbishop of Paris. The present age seems unable to produce any great or noble lives. There is a dead level of hopeless mediocrity.
Günthersdorf, August 16, 1841.– As I write this date I cannot but remember with deep regret an anniversary which will always be dear and sacred to me; this is the day of Saint Hyacinthe, the patron saint of the late Mgr. de Quélan. I am certain that mass is being said for him at the Sacré Cœur. For many years a shrub was taken to him from me on this day. Two years ago, when he was still ill at Conflans, he called my servant into his room, who then brought him an orange tree and asked Madame de Gramont to write a note saying that of all the flowers he had received mine had given him the greatest pleasure. Now I can do no more than pray to him in heaven. I often think that he is united with Him to whom he has so often prayed himself, and that both intercede before God on my behalf, to gain me the blessing of a good death, and especially a Christian life, for rarely does the one come to pass without the other; and if God sometimes shows His mercy at a late hour, we have no reason to be idle or to omit any effort to deserve it. These true and heartfelt words I often repeat to myself, but do not derive a full measure of comfort from them. The worldly spirit, the old enemy, is difficult to eradicate.
At Wartenberg I inspected the Protestant school. Last year I was present at the examination of the Catholic children, and I can say, without prejudice, that the latter school is infinitely superior to the former.
The post brought me a letter from the Court Marshal, giving me an official announcement from their Majesties of their proposal to pass here on the 31st of this month.
Günthersdorf, August 18, 1841.– I have a letter from M. Bresson. He had announced his visit to me long ago, and now asks me to transfer it to the 31st of this month, so that he may stay here on that day to see the King and leave on the 1st. He tells me that when the King learnt of his proposal to come here, he told him at his last audience that he hoped he might meet him at my house; he also tells me that the diplomatic nominations will not be made until the Tory Ministry comes into office, which the Queen of England is unable to avoid.
He adds that M. and Madame Thiers are at Berlin and are arousing keen curiosity; crowds gather as they pass. M. Thiers seems anxious not to give his journey any political meaning and is showing great circumspection. He has asked to see the King. M. Bresson was awaiting at the time when he wrote to me an answer to this request from Sans Souci.
Günthersdorf, August 20, 1841.– Yesterday I took a long drive through my estates on the other side of the Oder. The weather was very fine and this morning is also quite clear. I trust it may be as fine for the King's visit.
Günthersdorf, August 21, 1841.– In Germany birthdays are even more important festivals than baptismal days,37 so since yesterday, compliments and bouquets have been coming in. All the Catholic priests came yesterday to offer their good wishes and have promised to say mass for me this morning. Yesterday evening all the masters of the Catholic schools, of which there are twelve upon my estates, came together, though some of them live twelve leagues away, to sing to me in detachments with the best pupils of their schools; simple and touching verses very well written and thought out, with no instrumental accompaniment; it was very pretty and kind; any mark of affection is always deeply felt by me and I was therefore greatly touched.
Günthersdorf, August 22, 1841.– Yesterday I had a numerous company to dinner and took them to the shooting competition arranged in the pheasant preserves. All the gamekeepers, farmers and servants were there. There was music in the copses, flowers everywhere and a beautiful sunny day. I offered three prizes, a sporting rifle, a hunting knife, and a game bag. The two Prefects in whose department I have property, came in after dinner and took tea. It was so fine that in spite of nightfall, the company did not separate until my bedtime.
Günthersdorf, August 25, 1841.– Yesterday I had a letter from the Princesse de Lieven, the chief news of which is as follows: "It is said that the society of Vienna will receive M. Bresson very coldly. Prince Metternich has hinted as much here. He has no great liking for any of the competitors for this post, and less liking for Bresson than for the others. Apponyi says so without constraint. I think that Lord Cowley will take Lord Granville's place. Lady Palmerston is greatly distressed at losing Downing Street:38 Lord Palmerston puts a better face upon the matter; his address to the electors of Tiverton marks the end of his career in French opinion. Much ill feeling on the matter remains here and we part with him upon distinctly bad terms."
I propose to leave Silesia in a week from to-day and should like to see my dear Touraine again on October 1. The local newspapers contain no news except that the King received M. Thiers, not at Sans Souci, but at Berlin in a private audience which lasted twenty minutes. M. Thiers wore his academician's dress and the orders of Belgium and Spain. Throughout his journey he has been the object of curiosity which was rather keen than kindly, and if he understood German he would have heard more than one caustic remark.
I have made arrangements with my gardener and an architect for the decorations for the day when the King is to stay here. The decorations will consist of numerous garlands, pyramids, festoons and arches of dahlias of every colour which will decorate the King's path from the avenue to the house. There is nothing magnificent or imposing about this place: there is no view, but it is fresh and green; the trees are beautiful and the garden well kept. The house is large but not striking, without architectural beauty and surmounted by a heavy ugly roof, so that only by means of flowers can any daintiness be given to the whole. The hall is to be turned into an orangery and, in short, the whole will appear in holiday though unpretentious dress, which will at any rate show my good intentions.
Günthersdorf, August 30, 1841.– My niece, Hohenthal, arrived here yesterday. She told me that Madame Thiers had been so ill at Dresden that she had been taken from her hotel to the doctor's house. M. Thiers told some one who repeated it to my niece, that his audience with the King of Prussia was short and cold and that the King talked of nothing but Art; his attitude seems to have been well advised. General de Rumigny, on the contrary, is most kindly treated.
Günthersdorf, August 31, 1841.– Yesterday after dinner I set out with my nephew Biron and we went to Grünberg to await their Majesties at the house of the Queen's chief lady, who had gone in advance of her. A prodigious number of triumphal arches, deputations, addresses and cavalcades made their Majesties so late, that they did not reach their resting-place until half-past ten at night, though this hour was very suitable for the illuminations and fireworks at our chief centre. Many of the principal landowners in the district were there. The King and Queen first received me alone and then the rest of the company was admitted. Their Majesties wished to keep me to supper, but as I still have a great deal to arrange here, I asked permission to withdraw and reached home at half-past one in the morning. Fortunately it was a beautiful moonlight night.
I found General de Rumigny at Grünberg. He is following the King to the manœuvres and will arrive here this morning. The weather is magnificent and I should like to kneel down and send up a prayer of thanks to the sun for his kindness.
, September 1, 1841.– Yesterday passed off very well. Their Majesties were in excellent spirits and most kind. The weather was perfect, flowers were abundant and there was a good lunch suitably served; the population in holiday attire came in large numbers and behaved excellently. I drove after the King with my nephew to the first village where horses were changed. This village is on my estate and His Majesty was again greeted with a triumphal arch by my keepers and with country receptions of every kind. The King, who did not know that I was following, as I had not told him, was quite surprised to see me. He got down from his carriage and made me take his place as the Queen wished to embrace me once more. In short they seem to have been quite satisfied, which is a great pleasure to me.
General de Rumigny started immediately after the King, M. Bresson after dinner and the Birons after tea. My niece, Hohenthal, went away last night and so I am here alone.
Günthersdorf, September 2, 1841.– I have decided to start this evening and before I go I am designing a new addition to the garden, which will make it truly magnificent, and I have commissioned the architect to replace the heavy rotten roof with gables and a flat roof.
Berlin, September 3, 1841.– I reached here after covering fifty-four French leagues in seventeen hours. In this country where one cannot arrange for relays, this is excellent travelling.
M. Bresson told me that no one could be more surly or disagreeable than Madame Thiers: she has been ill, or pretended to be ill, and declared that she would die if she stayed any longer in Germany, which seemed to her like Siberia.
Berlin, September 5, 1841.– Yesterday I went to the Werthers who are soon to exchange their diplomatic post for one at Court. Werther himself, like a good courtier, suggested this change at the proper time and has thus spared himself possible mortification and obtained an excellent post. Frau von Werther and Josephine regret the change.
Berlin, September 6, 1841.– I am going to entrust myself to the railway as far as Potsdam. At Potsdam I shall dress and dine with Princess Charles of Prussia at Klein Glienicke at the gates of the town. I shall then resume my journey and spend the night in my carriage in order to reach Leipzig to-morrow morning. There I shall find the Hohenthals who are bringing my niece Fanny Biron, whom I have promised to take with me to France. A winter in Saxony is thought to be too much for her health, which is delicate.
Leipzig, September 6, 1841.– I left my Berlin hotel yesterday morning. I had chocolate with Madame de Perponcher and learnt from her the sad news of the sudden death of my young and charming neighbour, Princess Adelaide Carolath, who was married under the most dramatic circumstances a year ago to her cousin and died in a few hours of an attack of suppressed measles. She was quite an ideal character and I have been deeply affected by this sudden death.
From Berlin to Potsdam I travelled with Baron von Arnim, master of the ceremonies, who was also dining at Glienicke. The Princess drove me round the park in her pony-chaise. After dinner I went for a walk and then said good-bye.
Weimar, September 9, 1841.– We parted from the Hohenthals at Leipzig yesterday morning. The two sisters were much depressed at their separation; however, the open air and the pretty country through which we have been travelling enabled Fanny to recover her spirits.
Here I found a letter from the Princess of Prussia who is staying at Kreuznach on the Rhine and asks me to go and see her while I am at Johannisberg. I shall certainly do so, though it will prolong my journey by an additional day.
Frankfort-on-Main, September 11, 1841.– I arrived here this morning in fine weather. My niece proposes to spend a few days with her former governess at Bonn, to see her brother who is in garrison there and is now ill. We shall meet again at Mayence on the 15th. I am starting for Johannisberg to-morrow.
Frankfort, September 12, 1841.– Yesterday at tea-time Count Maltzan came in. He is taking the baths at Kreuznach and came over to see his niece Fanny. He is very pleased with his position as Minister of Foreign Affairs. I doubt if he will suit the King of Prussia in the long run, for he is vehement, irascible and impetuous, and though the King is angelically good he is very quick tempered. However, it is no business of mine. The Count is a kind and pleasant drawing-room talker, and when he has got rid of his habit of gossiping, which he contracted at Vienna, he will be a pleasant person, except for those who have to transact business with him.
Johannisberg, September 13, 1841.– I arrived here yesterday at two o'clock, the weather being extremely hot. I had known this place in past years and few changes have been made. There is an extensive and beautiful view, though I prefer the view from Rochecotte, which is similar, because of the forest which crowns my house, and also because of the vegetation along the Loire and the hillsides opposite me, which make the valley grander and more beautiful. Here the vines cover everything. The house is very large and the rooms spacious but somewhat poorly furnished. I was most kindly received, not only by the master and mistress of the house but by many other acquaintances: my cousin, Paul Medem, who would as soon go back to Stuttgart as Minister as to Vienna to the post of Chargé d'Affaires; Tatitscheff, who is almost entirely blind, and Neumann who is returning to London to-morrow.
I have no news; Prince Metternich says there is none. He is very pleased to hear of the Whig downfall in England and very well disposed to M. Guizot; he is sorry that the Duc de Montebello is not to be sent to him at Vienna. He has very humble letters from M. de Flahaut, and begins to think that a minister who writes confidential platitudes beforehand should be easier to manage than any other. However, nothing is as yet officially known concerning the movements of the French diplomatic body. Apponyi and his family are expected to-day on their way from Paris. They are to stay here before proceeding to Hungary on leave. Let us hope that they will bring some positive news concerning the nomination of the French Ambassador to Vienna.
Johannisberg, September 14, 1841.– I have accomplished my excursion to Kreuznach, which occupied the whole of yesterday: I did not return till half-past eight in the evening and was obliged to cross the Rhine in the darkness, which I did not find particularly pleasant, in spite of the beauty of the scene; the lights of the steamboats from the banks reflected in the river, and the masses of the rocks increased by the darkness of the night made an imposing scene which I only half enjoyed as I was somewhat afraid. At Kreuznach I spent several hours with the Princess of Prussia who was as kind as ever. I was sorry to find her considerably changed, uneasy concerning her health, and tired by taking the waters, from which so far she had experienced no other result. I dined with her, and Count Maltzan was present.
Prince Metternich yesterday received an official intimation that M. de Flahaut had been appointed to the Vienna embassy; he is not greatly pleased at this news. The other changes in the French diplomatic body were not then known.
M. de Bourquency is very fashionable here; though the Prince does not know him personally, he was full of praises of his behaviour at London; at the same time he added that a diplomatist, who was also a contributor to the Journal des Debáts, was one of the curiosities of the age.
Johannisberg, September 15, 1841.– Yesterday I did not go out all day though the weather was beautiful. I was very glad to rest; moreover, so much time is spent here in receiving a succession of callers that country life properly so called is impossible.
Mayence, September 16, 1841.– I left Johannisberg yesterday and was much touched by all the kindness of the master and mistress of the house, and very glad that I had been able to pay them a visit. I arrived here in good time, and found Frau von Binzer, Paul Medem and Baron Zedlitz awaiting me. The baron, who is a well-known poet, has now taken the place of Gentz with Prince Metternich on account of some political publication. While I was dining with these people, three cannon shots announced the steamboat by which the Princess of Prussia was travelling up the Rhine on her way to Weimar through Mannheim. The boat stopped here for ten minutes, and as it put in some thirty yards from the hotel I went to spend these ten minutes on board with the Princess; she was not expecting me, and showed the utmost satisfaction at this small attention.
The evening was warm and beautiful and we drove round the town, the outskirts of which are pretty, and went to see the statue of Gutenberg by Thorwaldsen, which is a handsome piece of work. On our return we heard that a courier from the Rothschilds had arrived from Paris, bringing the news of a small rising in Paris during which a pistol shot had been fired at the Duc d'Aumale, who, however, was not hit.39
Metz, September 18, 1841.– I arrived here yesterday evening in a torrential downpour of rain, which makes travelling extremely unpleasant. At the hotel I found General d'Outremont, who was in command at Tours for a long time. He is at Metz for inspection and asked to see me. He told me that the disturbances at Clermont were even more serious than those at Toulouse, in fact the newspaper that some one has lent me regards them as very serious.
Paris, September 20, 1841.– I have now returned to the great Babylon. The good and excellent Barante was awaiting my arrival. He has spent the evening here and given me the following news: the disturbances in Clermont seem to have been of the most serious character, a real Jacquerie and the most disquieting demonstration that has taken place in France since 1830.40 Barante who has been absent for three and a half years, was astonished and horrified by the general degradation, especially in political morality, which is obvious here. He wittily said that he had not yet come across a man in Paris who had a good word for another. He proposes to spend six weeks at his house in Auvergne and will then stay here for the winter and not return to St. Petersburg till the spring. Sainte-Aulaire started forty-eight hours ago for his new post in London. His wife will not follow him until February and Madame de Flahaut will not go to Vienna until she has married her daughter, Emilie, for whom no suitor has yet appeared.